Wednesday, March 21, 2012

CLASSIC LASAGNE AL FORNO

SERVES 4

12 sheets dried or fresh lasagne
1 recipe classic ragu bolognese
6 tbsp freshly grated parmesan


FOR BECHAMEL

5 tbsp (75g) butter
4 1/2 tbsp all-purpose flour
3 cups (750ml) milk
salt, black pepper, nutmeg


Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Cook pasta, 3 sheets at a time, in a large pot of boiling, salted water for half the recommended time, or until pasta is pliable but slightly hard at the center, about 4 minutes for dried pasta, 1 minute for fresh pasta. Drain and place sheets in a single layer on dish towels. For bechamel, melt butter over medium heat in a heavy saucepan. Whisk in flour and cook until foaming, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and pour in milk gradually, whisking constantly. Return to heat and cook, whisking constantly, until sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Bring to the boil and remove from the heat. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. In a buttered 13in x 9in x 3in (33cm x 23cm x 7.5cm) oven-proof dish, spread a thin layer of the bechamel. Lay 3 sheets pasta, over the bechamel. Spread a quarter of the ragu over the pasta. Spread a quarter of the bechamel over the ragu, and sprinkle with a quarter of the parmesan. Starting with another layer of 3 pasta sheets, repeat layers. Repeat layers again to finish, ending with parmesan. Bake in oven until golden and bubbling, 30 minutes. Leave to stand for 5 minutes before serving.

WHICH PASTA?

Egg lasagne, green or yellow, fresh when possible.

THINK AHEAD
Assemble lasagne and leave to cool completely. Cover, unbaked, and refrigerate up to 1 day in advance. Alternatively freeze, unbaked, up to 3 weeks in advance. Defrost overnight in refrigerator. Cook in preheated 400°F (200°C) oven for 30 minutes.
Make bechamel up to 2 days in advance. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing down on the surface to prevent a skin forming. Refrigerate. Before using, beat to make it easy to spread. If making with cold bechamel, be sure to have ragu and pasta also cold.

COOKS' NOTE

I don't recommend no-cook lasagne, but if it is all you can find at the store, always treat it as regular dried lasagne and pre-cook until just pliable, about 30 seconds. Alternatively, follow the recipe on the packet, which will make proper allowances for the amount of liquid absorbed by the lasagne during baking.


VARIATION

CLASSIC ITALIAN-AMERICAN LASAGNE
Omit bechamel. Use 8 oz (250g) ricotta, crumbled, and 8 oz (25Og) finely sliced mozzarella in place of bechamel. Arrange in layers as directed, substituting ricotta and mozzarella mixture for bechamel. Bake as directed.


Tuesday, March 20, 2012

CHICKEN, TOMATO AND ROSEMARY RAGU

SERVES 4
FOR CHICKEN

12 oz (350g) boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 celery stalk, quartered
1/2 small onion, chopped
5 tbsp dry white wine


FOR SAUCE

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp finely chopped onion
1 tbsp finely chopped celery stalk
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary
grated zest of 1/2 lemon
1 - 14oz (400g) can Italian plum tomatoes, chopped
salt, black pepper
1 lb (500g) dried pasta


Place chicken, celery, onion, and wine in a pan with cold water to cover. Bring slowly to a simmer over medium low heat. Simmer gently without boiling until cooked through, 7-10 minutes. Cool completely in cooking liquid. Drain, reserving liquid, and cut chicken into 1/2in (1cm) dice. Heat oil in a skillet. Add onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, over medium low heat until soft, 5 minutes. Add garlic, parsley, and rosemary and cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Add lemon zest, tomatoes, and 4 tbsp reserved poaching liquid. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until thick, 30 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add chicken and heat through, 3 minutes. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling, sailed water, until firm to the bite. Drain. Add pasta to the hot sauce. Toss well to coat. Serve immediately.

WHICH PASTA?

Medium tubes or shapes - gnocchi. ditali. macaroni.

THINK AHEAD

Cook chicken, but do not dice, up to 2 days in advance. Make tomato sauce up to 1 day in advance. Cover and refrigerate.

Monday, March 19, 2012

RAGU AL FORNO

SLOW COOK
SERVES 4 - 6

FOR BECHAMEL

1/2 stick (60g) butter
3 tbsp all-purpose flour
1 pint (500ml) milk
salt, pepper, nutmeg
1 lb (500g) dried pasta
1 recipe classic ragu bolognese
3 tbsp freshly grated parmesan




Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
For bechamel, melt butter over medium heat in a heavy saucepan. Whisk in flour and cook until foaming, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and pour in milk gradually, whisking constantly. Return to heat and cook, whisking constantly, until sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Bring to the boil and remove from heat. Add salt, black pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water, until just firm to the bite. Drain. Toss pasta with ragu, bechamel, and parmesan. Place in buttered 12in x 8in x 3in (30cm x 20cm x 7.5cm) oven-proof dish and bake until golden and crusty, 15 minutes. Leave to stand lor 5 minutes before serving.


WHICH PASTA?

Large tubes or shapes - rigatoni, penne, conchiglie.

THINK AHEAD

Assemble and leave to cool completely. Cover, unbaked and refrigerate up to 1 day in advance. Alternatively, freeze up to 3 weeks In advance. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator.

Friday, October 7, 2011

CLASSIC RAGU BOLOGNESE

SLOW COOK
SERVES 4 - 6
1/2 stick (60g) butter
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 oz (60g) unsmoked pancetta or bacon, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 lb (500g) lean chuck steak, coarsely ground
2 tbsp tomato paste
2/3 cup (150ml) red wine
2/3 cup (150ml) meat stock, or water ground nutmeg
2/3 cup (150ml) milk
salt, black pepper,
1 lb (500g) dried pasta
freshly grated parmesan to serve


 Melt butter and oil in a large, heavy-based pot over medium high heat. Add pancetta and cook, stirring frequently, until colored, 5 minutes. Add onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and bay leaf and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, 8 minutes. Add ground beef and cook, crumbling with a fork to break up, until browned. Turn heat to medium. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Add wine, stock or water, and nutmeg. Bring to a boil, then turn heat down to very low. Simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally and adding milk 2 tbsp at a time every 20-30 minutes. Cook until thick and rich, 2 hours. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water until firm to the bite, Drain. Add drained pasta to hot ragu. Toss well to coat. Serve immediately with parmesan.

WHICH PASTA?

Medium ribbons or large tubes - tagliatelle, macaroni, rigatoni. penne.

THINK AHEAD

Make sauce up to 3 days in advance. Cover and refrigerate. Alternatively, make up to 1 month in advance and freeze. Defrost overnight in regrigerator before reheating.

SPICY SAUSAGE RAGU

SLOW COOK 
SERVES 4

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
8 oz (250g) italian sausages, skinned and crumbled
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 - 14oz (400g) can chopped italian plum tomatoes
salt, black pepper
1/2 cup (125ml) heavy cream
1 lb (500g) dried pasta
freshly grated parmesan to serve


Heat oil in a skillet. Cook onion and garlic over medium high heat, stirring frequently, until soft and pale gold, 5 minutes. Add sausage. Cook, stirring to break up, until colored, 10 minutes. Add red pepper flakes, fennel, oregano, tomato paste, and chopped tomatoes. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 20 minutes. Add cream. Cook, stirring until heated through. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water, until firm to the bite. Drain. Add pasta to the hot sauce. Toss well to coat. Serve immediately with parmesan.


WHICH PASTA?

Medium or large tubes - ditali, penne, rigatoni, macaroni.

THINK AHEAD

Make ragu up to 3 days in advance. Cover and refrigerate. Alternatively, freeze up to 1 month in advance. Defrost overnight in refrigerator before reheating.

COOKS' NOTE

Be sure to use good-quality Italian sausage for this sauce. You can use Ihe sweet sausages or, for an even spicier ragu, use spicy sausages.


CARBONARA

QUICK COOK
SERVES 4


3 egg yolks
8 tbsp freshly grated parmesan
2 tbsp oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
8oz (250g) unsmoked pancetta or
bacon slices, cut into 1/4 in (0.5cm) wide strips
4 tbsp white wine
1 tbsp butter
1 lb (500g) dried pasta
salt, black pepper
additional freshly grated parmesan to serve


Mix egg yolks and parmesan in a bowl until combined. Heat oil in a skillet. Add garlic and cook over medium high heat until golden, 2 minutes. Remove garlic and discard. Add pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 5 minutes. Add wine and simmer until just evaporated, 2 minutes. Remove from heat.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water, until firm to the bite. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup pasta water. Add drained pasta to the hot pancetta and toss well to coat. Remove from the heat. Add egg mixture and butter and toss again to coat, adding reserved water as needed. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately with additional parmesan.


WHICH PASTA?

Hollow or thin strands - bucatini, spaghetti.

COOKS' NOTE

We have sharpened the sauce with the addition of while wine. If you don't have any white wine in the pantry, use 2 tbsp dry vermouth instead.

VENETIAN-STYLE CHICKEN LIVER

QUICK COOK
SERVES 4

8 oz (250g) chicken livers
2 tbsp (30g) butter
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
4 fresh sage leaves
1 garlic clove, peeled an halved
4 tbsp dry white wine
salt, black pepper
1 lb (500g) dried pasta
4 tbsp freshly grated parmesan
additional butter to toss
additional freshly grated parmesan to serve


Place chicken livers in strainer and rinse under cold running water. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Cut each chicken liver into 3 pieces, discarding fat and membranes. Melt butter with olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and sage and cook until garlic is golden, 2-3 minutes. Remove and discard garlic and sage. Add chicken livers and cook, stirring frequently, until browned, 1 minute. Add wine and simmer until just evaporated, 30 seconds. Add salt and pepper to taste. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water, until firm to the bite. Drain. Add pasta with parmesan and 1 tbsp additional butter to the hot sauce. Toss well to coat. Serve immediately with additional parmesan.

WHICH PASTA?

Shapes or medium to wide ribbons - conchiglie, pappardelle. tagliatelle. farfalle.

COOKS' NOTE

Quick cooking ensures that the chicken liver pieces will be still pink and juicy inside.